Khol

Did you say Khol?

Khol is a traditional eye shadow. Traditionally black, it can also be grey or blue. It is pronounced khol, but also kohol or kohl. It is a mineral powder formerly extracted from lead sulphate or antimony sulphide. This powder was also made from lead, bitumen or burnt wood and was used to make up the eyes or in the treatment of certain ophthalmological diseases.

It is now made (in theory) without lead, and as a cosmetic to highlight the eye contour. It has always had a medicinal purpose, with certain ingredients being both toxic and beneficial (the toxicity also being biocidal). It is reputed to have been the first antibiotic, over 4,000 years ago.

The origins of kohl

The word Khôl comes from the Arabic كحل kuhl (antimony, or eyewash) linked to the Hebrew root meaning to put on blush, itself linked to the colour blue, the colour of Khôl powder .

Khol actually dates back to ancient Egypt, more than 4,000 years ago, when men and women wore khol, and the term is even found in hieroglyphics. The word is found in many ancient languages, including Berber, ancient Greek, Hebrew and Amharic, which shows not only its presence but also its use.

It was used for its antibacterial effect on the eyes, as we have already seen, but also for its supposed virtues against evil spirits.

Its long lead-based composition was the cause of many cases of lead poisoning. This substance was slowly released into the skin.

An ancient sign of beauty

Since ancient Egypt, this black make-up has been a sign of adornment and beauty right up to the present day. Both men and women used it to apply make-up. Who hasn't noticed the long black eyes in Egyptian hieroglyphics? Originally, black was applied around the eyes for protective purposes, as the sun's reflection was less intense around this black halo. It has even been found during archaeological digs, and the powder had lost none of its properties. Very quickly, the aesthetic aspect of kohl won out, and to this day it remains the kohl's greatest interest. The Hebrews used to consider women who wore kohl as bad women, seductive and embellished. In the same spirit, discover Korean make-up online.

Regional variations

The traditional recipe for kohl powder varies from region to region. Copper sulphate, clove seeds, alum, olive oil, zenjar, etc. are all used. The powder is traditionally collected in a small jar, flask or similar. Using a small wooden stick called a "mirwed", the powder is collected and the stick is slid between the upper and lower eyelids. In a back and forth movement, the powder is applied evenly to the outer mucous membranes of the eyelids. The powder is thus naturally moistened and evenly distributed over the top and bottom of the eye.

Khôl or Kajal?

In common parlance, we often tend to hear the two words used in the world of make-up, as if we could replace one by the other, and vice versa. But this is not the case. Khôl, as we have seen, is a real powder, made in the past using toxic ingredients, primarily for medical purposes. Kajal, on the other hand, is traditional Indian kohl . Mainly made from ghee charcoal, or clarified butter, it is also a real eye treatment. Beeswax, vegetable oil and camphor are all ingredients closely linked to Ayurvedic medicine. It disinfects and purifies the eye. From an aesthetic point of view, there's no great difference between the two eye care products - the result is almost the same. Kajal, however, has a coarser, oilier texture due to its ingredients, which contain fats.

How do you apply it? Techniques.

Many techniques are used to adorn the eyes with this famous black halo.

There are three main techniques.

- The double technique: after passing the stick, the "mirwed", through the pot or vial of Khôl powder, apply the stick to the inner corner of the eye, always from the inside outwards, in a single gesture, closing the eye. You'll get an application both above and below the inner lining of your eye. Oriental effect guaranteed!

- The lower lash line effect. With a single line just below the eye, the effect will be less pronounced than the double technique, but just as sublime. However, beware of the "panda" effect, which can become unsightly over time.

- In the upper lash line, a well-defined and controlled line will lengthen your eyes ad infinitum, with a slightly darker side.

In other words, if you want a dark, powdery, slightly blurred Oriental look every day, go for it and use Khôl.

Consumer review

- Very simple and easy to use. I was a bit worried that I wouldn't know how to apply it, but it's very easy to get the hang of. Very effective hold"

- "Sometimes I have a bit of trouble opening the bottle, and the stick is a bit too long (I have small eyes), but the hold is impeccable."

- "I'm always a little apprehensive when I buy Khôl, especially the panda-eye effect. But if you only put it on the top line of the lash line, you limit the damage. It's the only make-up that I put on and put off, buy and buy again without question. A small investment for a top result! I obviously recommend it

- I've seen reusable jars for Khôl elsewhere, but I prefer to buy a disposable bottle, even if it's less environmentally responsible. Everything to do with eye health is delicate and you have to be very careful when using these products."